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Clutch Master Cylinder - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #82407 65 posts Started by trdproven
Are there two types of clutch master cylinders for my 94 2.2L Celica GT? I converted my car to manual back in 2009 and my generic clutch master brand is about to give out. I'm running 3sgte light flywheel and clutch from Competition Clutch. sometimes it gets stuck and i have to pick it up by hand and pump it, fluid is slightly lower than full, and fluid is hella dirty, looks like an internal seal leak to me. Plan to buy an OEM one. I've seen online on toyota sites - two kinds of masters though, 1 that goes up with a long neck reservoir (i have this type) and the other one looks like a typical one with a long cylinder and stubby reservoir. I cannot just put my VIN in because my VIN is for automatic. so when I use toyodiy for the part number i get the stubby one on the toyota site, I want to be sure what I'm getting because I do not know for sure if thats just an illustration because i have the longer neck type. BTW, I've also seen the stubby ones as well for sale so thats why i think there are two.

Are there any performance clutch master cylinder and slave for our cars?



This post has been edited by trdproven: Feb 14, 2012 - 5:49 PM

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
performance? none that i know of. as far as i know there is only 1 style of master cylinder in the 6th gen. the parts guy shouldnt be having this much trouble

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac
i know the ones with the long neck are for LHD and the stubbier reservoir ones are for RHD.
iirc, the difference in the shape of the clutch reservoirs has something to do with the wiper motor location.

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If its the GT its the long neck atleast here in US, just swapped the STs master to the GT master
ok so the toyota site is just for illustration purposes, usually the pics are pretty close though.

you guys all make a point, thanks again.

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
found out that my slave cylinder crapped out, its leaking when pumping. i guess then what is the part number for toyota for the slave? I think it may be called something else cus toyodiy does not have it, it has to be called something else.

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
i guess 1sttoyotaparts only has 1 kind, that should be it.

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
why don't you just buy the rebuild kit for the master clutch cylinder. its like $27. The whole assembly for the new one will run you well over $110.

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
I have seen these leaking before..
there's a write up on how to rebuild your slave cylinder on another celica forum

really??!! ^ whats the difference between the two. I am having the same issue right now...

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
the master is mounted on the firewall behind the shock tower, and the slave is mounted in front of the tranny.


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no azain of course I know that ^^^^^ laugh.gif laugh.gif

functionality wise....

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
I already replaced it a while ago, its all good now.

But to answer your question, I do not like rebuild kits, they fail at a higher rate earlier than new parts. and especially for a slave a brand new one is so close to a repair kit cost, it would be crazy to rebuild it. in fact auto stores here are stopping the sale of repair kits due to their unreliability or accuracy. sometimes with the repair kits the slave bore does not fit the rebuild piston or vice versa, at least thats what I've noticed.

I used an OEM slave this time, works like a charm.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Mar 22, 2012 - 9:47 PM

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
so I'm having issues right now. about 7,000 miles ago my clutch was sticking and and bled out some air from the slave cylinder. I also replaced the clutch master cylinder with new dot 4 brake fluid.

Now I'm getting that issue every once in a while, where it'll be super hard to get into reverse and when I want to take it out of reverse the clutch will stick to the floor.

Also, I can't shift into 2nd gear and 4th gear when doing Wide open throttle (to 7k rpm) all the way through 1-4th gear. It just goes into nuetral when I press the clutch to shift into either 2nd or 4th gear.

most likely my slave cylinder??

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
First make sure no air is in the system (as any hydraulic system)

make sure slave is not leaking pull back boot and pump and check for leaks. Good sign of sinking clutch pedal is a slave.

Master cylinder good way to tell its bad is pump and look at the slave to see if its moving. also if you have overflow on the reservoir is another good sign. I've seen a bad master where getting into gears is tough, but it wasn't with a sinking pedal, it was just a weak pedal, it would come back up but the pressure is not strong when you press the pedal. GL

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 9, 2012 - 5:58 PM

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
Definately make sure that fork on the trannie attached to the slave is moving nicely. Should move about 2-3 inches if I recall correctly.

The not being able to shift at high rpms sounds odd. Have you checked your trannie fluid recently? Also when you filled it what did you put in? I recently put to heavy of a weight in mine and it caused it to be very difficult to shift into certain gears, and impossible at high RPMs. Once I put the correct oil in, it worked like a charm. Is it making a whurring noise when the clutch is released?

Oh yea, pedal sticking down sounds just like air in the line. Have you bled it properly by sticking a tube on the slave release valve into a jar, or some kinda can with about a inch of fluid to submerge the tube. Thats the 1 man way, 2 man if you have someone inside the car. Press down 10 times, hold on last pump, release pressure. Rinse repeat til solid feeling.

Also check around the clutch rubber line going to the fire wall, well for that matter the hard lines too. Look for any wet spots to point out leaks.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Apr 10, 2012 - 8:15 AM
theres only a few things to check of course leaks and no air, master and slave. thats about it. I've seen other issues where the pedal assembly is broken and cannot push well. or the pedal adjustment.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 10, 2012 - 8:21 PM

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
thanks for the info guys!!! this should be stickied!!??

I changed my transmission fluid to penzoil syncromesh about 11 months ago

yes I did this 8 months ago "Oh yea, pedal sticking down sounds just like air in the line. Have you bled it properly by sticking a tube on the slave release valve into a jar, or some kinda can with about a inch of fluid to submerge the tube. Thats the 1 man way, 2 man if you have someone inside the car. Press down 10 times, hold on last pump, release pressure. Rinse repeat til solid feeling." with my dad...


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Apr 11, 2012 - 3:16 PM

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
yea bleed until the slave stops like hes spitting while talking.

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
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QUOTE (trdproven @ Apr 11, 2012 - 6:30 PM) *
>yea bleed until the slave stops like hes spitting while talking.


I did this 8 months ago. so I have to do this every 6 month or so in order to make sure everything working fine???

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
naw hydraulics is a closed system, you only need to do it once. if you are doing this more often, you have a bad cylinder somewhere or you have a leak somewhere or, your fluid for some reason is getting hella moisture that it gets contaminated and acts like a sinking pedal. Does your fluid look dark, thats a sign a bad seal, if its orangey thats a sign of too much moisture.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 12, 2012 - 6:21 AM

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
>
QUOTE (trdproven @ Apr 12, 2012 - 6:21 AM) *
>naw hydraulics is a closed system, you only need to do it once. if you are doing this more often, you have a bad cylinder somewhere or you have a leak somewhere or, your fluid for some reason is getting hella moisture that it gets contaminated and acts like a sinking pedal. Does your fluid look dark, that's a sign a bad seal, if its orangey that's a sign of too much moisture.


yes it dirty and black. I thought that was because of me burning the clutch (which I almost never do). Its just a bit tricky getting out of first gear, I thought black stuff in the clutch master cylinder was normal. also here's a video if this helps. on t he 4th pump I have my brother hold the clutch down and the valve returns back almost all the way...



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 1, 2012 - 12:25 AM

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
for example if you pump, does that slave rod move? if not look if the master is rising in fluid, thats a sign of a bad master, sometimes they overflow. ive seen bad masters pedal feel weak but it comes back up. black color is from the seals that went bad and dirties the fluid. try pulling back that slave boot and pump to see if it leaks. Usually sinking pedal is a bad slave or air or leak. i have a feeling its the slave, again try pulling back that boot cover off the slave and have someone pumping and see if it leaks from there. if the rod is returning it sounds that the slave cannot hold pressure and that black fluid is the seals that wore out and its leaking from that area. if it was the master that rod pretty much wont move at all cus the master creates the pressure so if the master was broken it won't create pressure for the slave to push.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 18, 2012 - 2:38 AM

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)
Yea you got a leak after looking at that video.

Could be leaking within the slave, master, or one of your lines.

I would start with the slave, its a 15 dollar part at autozone, change it out..see what happens. Or check for some obvious fluid loss around all the soft and hard lines.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Apr 18, 2012 - 10:47 AM
wow awesome. thanks much for the help. Luckily I still have the clutch slave cylinder that came with the original beams swap. I'll try that and if not take a look around for the leakage. I thought if you pull back the boot on the slave cylinder you will rip it and it won't stay in place any longer???

Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle partshttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
>
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Apr 18, 2012 - 1:33 PM) *
>wow awesome. thanks much for the help. Luckily I still have the clutch slave cylinder that came with the original beams swap. I'll try that and if not take a look around for the leakage. I thought if you pull back the boot on the slave cylinder you will rip it and it won't stay in place any longer???


Nah, its just rubber, you can push it back into place.
>
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Apr 18, 2012 - 2:33 PM) *
>wow awesome. thanks much for the help. Luckily I still have the clutch slave cylinder that came with the original beams swap. I'll try that and if not take a look around for the leakage. I thought if you pull back the boot on the slave cylinder you will rip it and it won't stay in place any longer???

Naw the boot slips over an indention on the slave cylinder housing and just slides over the rod that comes out of the slave cylinder and pushes the clutch fork. You can gently pull it off by hand and even go so far as to use a screwdriver to push the clutch fork away to give you enough room to finagle(is that a word?) the boot off the end of the rod.

I imagine if it has a leak though that the boot will be filled with brake fluid. Just wiggling it off the slave cylinder housing will make it real obvious whether or not its full of brake fluid

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Apr 18, 2012 - 2:05 PM
the boot is just like any other rubber cover on your car, like a cv boot, shock boot, or wtvr but the indention is like the guys mentioned where it comes off and goes back on to lock. yea the boot would be full of oil if it has been going on for a while.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 18, 2012 - 7:03 PM

94 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi||Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto||Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr804 Celica GT|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy|89 Supra (Sold)90 Supra (Sold)