Woot!

ok guys.. this is buy week lol..

So I've looked through my own thread again and again.. and other threads to see if people have had similar issues with me. Right now, the car starts up, but seems to lose power as I press the gas. Once the car is warmed up, I can rev the car up to 4,000 rpm but then the car looses power and sputters down between 1 and 2000 rpm unstable. Then, the car begins to make a crying noise as it gets to lower and lower rpms, before finally dying completely. Another thing to note is that the alternator is either dead or not working properly. I'm not so certain it's dead because Jim told me he checked the alternator before he sent me the motor.

Now, recalling what lagos said earlier:

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I don't think I did this, and it might be possible this ground wire works with the alternator in terms of it being functional. If this ground wire isn't bolted on, would the car even start up? The only wiring that has not been done is the IC and IC wiring. I want to go either FMIC or a a2a TMIC as I think those intercoolers will be less maintenance. With that, I was wondering how the car would detect those different intercooler setups and allow boost. Because when no intercooler is detected I know the ECU turns off boost.

The parts I am going to order from toyotapartszone are:

VALVE ASSY, AIR CONTROL part # 17630-70020
2 hoses, part # 17342B

I'm going to get the passenger side axle from advanced auto parts. As for the transmission, I just dont see how it could be dead. When the car edged the pole it didnt even damage the front bumper and I don't have the crash bar on there.. so I how could that cause the transmission to go bad? So im going to buy these parts this week and I will continue to research this issues and hopefully have the answer to get this thing running.

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: Feb 21, 2010 - 1:33 PM

i'm going with the WRC 3rd rev 3S-GTE w/ E-153 LSD.... inner axles from a MR-2, outers from an st185, aftermarket axle cages (not sure what brand yet) due to the fact that i thoroughly enjoy shift-lock technique, st185 hubs, either the prolite or streetlite from ACT for a flywheel, and havn't decided on a clutch either.. either the twin-plate Exedy, or the HDG6, maybe XTG6, both from ACT.... then i'm going to up the PSI on the turbo, probably only to 10 at that point though....

that's what i have planned for phase-I.... hopefully the engine will be on it's way within a week...

He guys......... am the new owner of this trouble car........... and i would really apreciate the help
here is an update.........
1.Changed the transmission, put in the passenger side (correctly, it was not put in all the way, that's why it was not moving)...
2.Changing shifter cables... thats why it was not going in to gear
3. Installed, cooling fan
4. Replaced broken sensor that goes under the powersteering pump.

I still have a horribel vacuum leak.......
It does not rev pas 2K rpm

Here is a video of what it does
please let me know if you have any ideas of what could be wrong

Thank you in advance

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbyxY8m4SA8

We pulled some codes from the ecu the 1st time it was
1 , 12, 13, 14
After about an hour ago we unplugged the battery and did it again and different ones shows (we disconected the tps, we thought that might be the problem) codes where
12, 24 , 34, 35, 41.
And for the 3rd time we plugged the tps and reseted the ecu......
the codes where
35, 41

Good Good Good work man!! Im soo glad I sold it to you.. I'm sorry I could reply after I told you about the senor thing.. i was driving for the whole day basically.. So its still having a rough idle after putting in the new sensor????? geezus man.. that's crazy.. It could be possible it's a wiring thing then.. I'm gonna pm Batman and I'm sure manny can help with it also.. he's doing the swap as we speak.. give me a txt today also man.. I wont be as busy today.. you can call if you want also.

41 is the tps, and there is no code 35.

Thanks for the help guys, I will work on the car today.......

This is what a member from Celicatech is telling me... which sound pretty resonable so am going to check that too

"12,13,14 are all IGN related. - Check your connection at the distributor plug.

35 Turbocharger, excessive pressure. - Make sure your wastegate lines and the one going to the TVSV are in fact connected and do not have any leaks or breaks.

41 TPS - Did you make sure to use a set of feeler gauges when setting it along with your multimeter?
^^This can easily be done with the vehicle not running, but in the "ON" position. "


But I think the wiring is not right... ill show you why in a bit

the vac noise, is it coming from the charcoal canister ? is that plugged ?

>
From what I remember, those wires should just be re taped together.. When I was doing the swap.. a friend of mine snipped the wires in error.

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: May 4, 2010 - 1:28 PM

this is where the noise is coming from
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ngfqEhIOn8

well....... I took out all the spark plugs... they where flooded with fuel....... and one had some oil.. clean them and put them back on.... same thing...
Check for spark on the spark plugs... Good
Beside the wiring ........ am really out of ideas.......
help pls

>
there should be a hose that runs from that canister, to the back of the intercooler.
its a puke tank for it.

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OK i will look for it.........thanks!

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Anytime a car wont rev past a certain rpm in neutral, then its caused by an ignition related issue. Make sure the harness plug is connected to the back of the distributor, and verify that the car is using the correct igniter for the swap (often times people will try to use incorrect igniters because they didn't get the original one with their engine set). If both of those check out, go buy a new cap and rotor from toyota. Ive seen swaps not want to rev because of an old cap/rotor.

ps. whoever did the wiring needs to stay away from trying to wire cars. It would be a good idea to address that mess before it starts a fire in your fuse box.

This post has been edited by lagos: May 4, 2010 - 7:06 PM

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The igniter is,

124
131300-1343


I checked the connection for the distributor and its seems to be ok.......

Please let me know if i have the correct igniter



PS..... I no longer get codes, 11-12-13
Only 35, 41

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can the tps from gen 2 be use for the 3rd gen?

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Probably, but you dont need to install a new one. Most of the time they just need to be adjusted. You can easily test if the tps is your problem by disconnecting it. The car will run without it, and if your problems go away, then you know thats what it was.

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I was the one who did the wiring, but I sure as hell wasn't the one who snipped those wires so do not try and take shots at me indirectly.

>

Sorry, I was trying to make the point that its bad to have bare wires that could ground out at any time in the fuse box. Not really trying to start anything other than to point out a potential problem.

This post has been edited by lagos: May 5, 2010 - 3:27 PM

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I understand that problem, and I feel bad that I myself didn't tape up those wires before I shipped it out.. but I've been away at school and I basically set things up away from my car.. so I didn't do a good inspection of the engine as I should. You really didn't need to add that "whoever did the wiring needs to stay away from trying to wire cars" I already gave my buddy a good screaming after he did that last year. I'm sure bluerolla has already acknowledge that problem and has re-taped those wires by now.

Didn't really sound like he was taking a shot, sound more like "If you gunna do it, do it right, or not at all"

yikes. seems like an easy fix though.

Ok we just installed a tps from a 2nd gen...... no difference...

Update... I replace the tps sensor with my tps from my 2nd gen....... it got worst.
Put back the original 3rd gen sensor..... back to what it was doing......
Check wiring, for tps, .... all checked out ......

Checked the timing belt..... bingo!
it seem to be stench out........

I need you help again.. does a 2nd gen timing belt fit a 3rd gen 3sgte thanks!

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I doubt it.. it might though.. im sure someone who knows will post but im sure you can find a ST205 timing belt on ebay.. ill do a search for you

here you go found one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-Tune-Ti...sQ5fAccessories

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: May 5, 2010 - 9:37 PM

2nd gen doesn't fit. buy OEM (from dealer) or Bando. part #: 5pk1120

look for a bando dealer nearest you and order from there.

2nd gen timing belt works, it's just one tooth shorter then the 3rd gen, a lot of people are using 2nd gen belts, but ordering a 3rd gen belt from your dealer shouldn't be a problem so get the belt that is meant for it.