Ted95

#61

I'm really interested in trying to further cool my engine, I was curious about the SARD breather tank and where you have it installed, have an pics? Did you notice a difference?

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st205 powered ss3 coupe

Sunny

#62

Hi,

here some pics for you, i cutted the lower part of the radiator cap on the radiator to allow water/air flow to the tank











the limited space is the competition, i decided to use this location becouse there was space but on the negativ side there are the long hose ways

a breathing system is a good way to get air out of the cooling system especially when you use a 2flow or 3flow radiator, but it does not really effect the cooling,
even it do (must) there was no noticeable difference


the biggest advantage gives you a pipe instead a hose from the radiator to the thermostat, a hose pulls together and can effect the water flow up to 70% under high revolutions
and a fully opened thermostat



greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Nov 15, 2011 - 4:24 PM

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Ted95

#63

that came out pretty good. now i kno the breather tank wouldnt cool the engine that much, if any at all. did you notice anything with the oil radiator you installed? im goin to install a water/meth kit this winter and try and get some cooling panels and such, i guess im just trying to get the most out of my 3s with out tearing into it.

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st205 powered ss3 coupe

Sunny

#64

Hi Ted,

i'am sorry but can you explaine me what "out tering into it" means, my enslish in not good enough to understand

the oil radiator works fine with the thermostat i have oil temps from ~80-100°C

here we go, create as much pressure as possible in front of the radiator package and as less as possible in the engine bay to get the maximum air flow

a channel raise the pressure in front of it and a under panel with openings and tear off edges that look in the air flow under the car lowers the pressure in the engine bay, do you
ever had a look to the bonnet air escape.....you will note that the tear off edge in front of it is not so high as the backside, this is not a ideal design becouse air will escape just in the
front 1/3, air enters in the other 2/3, also the car angle of inclination effect this

i build this to solve it

http://www.turbocelica.nl/forums/thread.ph...sid=&page=3

i'am sorry imagehack doesn't work for now

greetz

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SwissFerdi

#65

^ He means that he doesn't want to take apart the motor too much.

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'97 ST\ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+[sold 10/18]'93 MX-5LE

Ted95

#66

wow thats a great thread, im very impressed i must say.

and ya i dont want to take the motor apart and get bigger internals, im trying to get the most out of my celi with just bolt ons and such. im going to try and get better air flow now even with my front mount intercooler, going to have to try and make sure i get as much air to it as possible. thanks for the info!

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st205 powered ss3 coupe

Sunny

#67

Hi,

i understand, thanks

you do the same like a friend of mine, he optimize his 3S-GTE wherever it goes

here a quick list of what i remember

- JDM ECU -> 100octane mapping
- TTE top mounted intercooler
- water injection
- 3" downpipe
- 100CPI cat
- aluminium radiator
- engine oil radiator

and now he plan do work with adjustable cam gears on oem camshafts

greetz

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Ted95

#68

thanks for the info!

whats next for your beast?

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st205 powered ss3 coupe

Sunny

#69

Hi,

you are welcome

the main part for now is to strip down the engine to get the bores measured and now i'am in contact with cp-carillo for a set of rods and pistons
sub work for now is port work on the head and his water ways, and then i'll possible do a modified oem throttle body

should be enough for the winter

greetz

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Sunny

#70

Hi,

Ted, there is another thing you can do to improve your cooling system i forget last time

anti freeze has a very low specific heat capacity and dramatically decrease the heat transfer of you cooling liquid,
demineralised water has the higest specific heat capacity of all liquids and no one ever developed a better liquid for cooling

the last years i drive the following ration 1:1,5 + 2% miller extra cool (2% of the water amount)
i noticed faster temp drops in the oil system after hard road driving, and also saw the liquid faster arriving operation temp.

do not drive just with water in front of rust, further tip -> reuse the old cooling liquid if she is ok, every fresh water brings new air in the system

greetz

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RoyO

#71

I just read your whole project topic, you've done interesting modifications!
A lot of custom work Keep it up..

Sunny

#72

Hi Roy,

thanks, i keep it up for you

íf it is ok for you i will answer your PM in here

i didn't use intercooler fans becouse i found them useless and it just means more complexitiy, a fan is typically needed there where not enough air can flow -> slow speeds and corners
the trick with the water is to use his high specific heat capacity! and the other thing is a pushing fan just has ~70% power of a equal pulling fan * wich means i had to mount the fans
behind the radiator but there is just ~1cm space to the oil coolers, so there is simple not enough space

* the fan direct the air in rotation and some mm later she must through the straight fins of the radiator, the air doesn't want this and create a backpressure -> a drop in efficiency is to follow

for you oil cooler project i can advise you to use a greedy thermostatic adapter, the advantage is that he also uses sensor ports

i bought a ST205 specific HKS SSQV kit, so i had everything i need to mount the BOV -> air box blanking, flange, further installation parts

but it looks like you have a very fine machine shop, your work looks perfect

greetz

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RoyO

#73

Ok, I knew pulling fans are more efficient then pushing fans but I didn't realise you installed the oil coolers that close to the IC rad.
Space is always the problem haha I always use genuine Toyota red coolant, but I'll try your mixture next time..

>

QUOTE (Sunny @ Dec 17, 2011 - 4:37 PM)

>for you oil cooler project i can advise you to use a greedy thermostatic adapter, the advantage is that he also uses sensor ports

I already installed my Blitz sensors alongside the oil filter: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...mp;#entry944309
So I'm going to buy a thermostatic adapter without the sensor ports. But thanks anyway

>

QUOTE (Sunny @ Dec 17, 2011 - 4:37 PM)

>i bought a ST205 specific HKS SSQV kit, so i had everything i need to mount the BOV -> air box blanking, flange, further installation parts

but it looks like you have a very fine machine shop, your work looks perfect

Thanks

Sunny

#74

Hi Roy,

space is the only problem of our cars
the radiators are mounted instead of the A/C condenser





thats is a great sensor mounting position, why doesn't find myself the position too

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Dec 18, 2011 - 12:22 PM

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Sunny

#75

Hi,

small update, the block is stripped and measured some time ago



i ordered CP pistons in 86,25mm 9:1CR
and carillo h-beam rods

greetz

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Neon90424

#76

damn nice build sunny! What did you do with the crash bar?

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What I think when you think I care

Sunny

#77

Hi,

you mean the black bar behind the front bumper? is still in place.....i would never tough a safety item

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Jan 19, 2012 - 2:59 PM

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Tigawoods

#78

>

QUOTE (Sunny @ Dec 18, 2011 - 12:19 PM)

>Hi Roy,

space is the only problem of our cars
the radiators are mounted instead of the A/C condenser





thats is a great sensor mounting position, why doesn't find myself the position too

greetz

are one of those radiators, replacing the A/C condenser?
or do they serve different purposes (oil/trans cooling)

**EDIT- I guess what I am asking is if you got rid of the A/C compressor, or replaced it**

I was looking into getting rid of my A/C condenser and replacing it with a smaller cooler like the ones you have placed in front of the radiator.

hope i have explained everything ok!
thanks

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Jan 23, 2012 - 3:06 AM

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1995 GT::::Diffusing the Situationエキサイティングカーレーシングチーム!march2010 COTM:6GCfeature2014:january2015-2016-2018 COTM

Sunny

#79

Hi,

i understand what you want to ask

i droped the A/C condenser so i will not usw A/C any more, a compromise that i decided becouse i never often used it, i want a good radiator position and also a good oil line routing in the car where they are more safe from
crashes becouse of this we relocated the lower mountings of the water radiator to get the maximum gap between radiator and chassis

left on the picture is the engine oil radiator and right the smaller gearbox one

let me know if threre is still anything left

greetz

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Tigawoods

#80

yeah that answered all my questions! thanks!

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1995 GT::::Diffusing the Situationエキサイティングカーレーシングチーム!march2010 COTM:6GCfeature2014:january2015-2016-2018 COTM

k-weaver

#81

Looks awesome!

Sunny

#82

Hi,

thanks mate, will do a update once some more parts arrived me


greetz

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sketchie

#83

Hey there,
First can I say well done with your project looks great. I'm planning on moving my battery to the boot. What do I need and what size cable do I need?

Thanks Ed

Sunny

#84

Hi,

thanks a lot for your compliment, you need the following parts
have a look to this homepage

http://www.gtfours.co.uk/

-> how too -> relocate the battery

if i remember correctly i'am using a 35mm² wire and a 120A fuse on the battery (-> RS-components fuse holder)

hope it helps

greetz

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Sunny

#85

Hi,

today more parts arrived

86,25mm, CR=9:1, ~334g





and the h-beam conrods, ~584g







nearly to shiny to built in, possible i give them in the glass cabinet :lol:

next on the whis list is the turbo and then i hope that i can built everything together as easy i dismounted all

greetz

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RoyO

#86

Very nice upgrades! What turbo do you want?
>

QUOTE (Sunny @ Mar 2, 2012 - 9:17 PM)

>nearly to shiny to built in, possible i give them in the glass cabinet :lol:

Sunny

#87

Hi,

it is still a option for me

greetz

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CelicasMan1

#88

Hi Sunny.
Your project is perfect,but why you didn't buy WOSSNER pistons and WOSSNER connecting rods?They have lower weight.

Sunny

#89

Hi,

sorry for the late reply and thanks for you compliment

i had a few phone calls to wössner, and i also compared the weight there isn't a big difference but iirc CP-Carillo was a bit lower in weight
i think it simple was a matter of taste why i decided to go with CP-Carillo, or possible the fact that a good friend drives wössner in his engine
and i want something different to bring some color in the game

.....hope for some updates soon

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Mar 28, 2012 - 11:59 AM

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Sunny

#90

Hi,

small update,

uprated oem water pump

the following two pictures shows the axial clearance without gasket

oem, is ~2mm + 0,5 for the gasket



and here the machined one, 0 clearance without gasket (target clearance of 0,5mm with gasket)



i also machined all edges, good to see the two angles of the oem plastic impeller pump seat



and here a comparison of the two different pump housings, gen.3 GTE with the two angle seat and gen.4 with the simple one angle stainless variant



and here a how to do,

all 3S engines from gen.3 onward uses the simple stainless pump except the gen.3 GTE
i found that the stainless pump housing has enough material to machine the two angle seat at the target clearance so you need both housings, one where you get the angels measured and stainless pump housing to machine it
we did it on CNC turning machine, and was in need to built a bracket becouse the housing isn't able to get fixed centric without, then we measured the angles and programmed it

it takes ~2hours and cost me 100€, absolute ok i think
feel free to drop me any question if needed

greetz

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