MY TIME HAS COME.....5SFTE - 6G Celicas Forums
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You are probably choking on fuel man - how much tuning have you done yet?
>ok soo my friend stoped by and he helped me find the problem....he said that my idle is too low....so he did something called retard timing....and it made a big difference....my celi used to just die out but after he did it it started to idle a little high and it didnt die out any more.....but as soon as i would press the gas...it dies out...idk guys any more options let me know...all i can say is that it starts up but dies as soon as i press the gas.....more up dating
You are probably choking on fuel man - how much tuning have you done yet?
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
You have a AEM wideband : USE IT!!! What's your AFR while idling? This is the best tool money can buy for tuning an engine, use it!
yea just sounds like you need to get some fuel out of the lo throttle points.
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
tune it asap and you shouldnt have bought the neo
This post has been edited by LewFX: Jul 7, 2009 - 4:16 PM
This post has been edited by LewFX: Jul 7, 2009 - 4:16 PM
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why shouldnt he have "bought the neo"?
its got 4 more rpm points, and a cool display, but you loose the knock count feature.
it really dont make a diffrence either way.
the SAFC NEO will do the same job the SAFCII will do.
>tune it asap and you shouldnt have bought the neo
why shouldnt he have "bought the neo"?
its got 4 more rpm points, and a cool display, but you loose the knock count feature.
it really dont make a diffrence either way.
the SAFC NEO will do the same job the SAFCII will do.
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
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There is nothing wrong with the NEO.
Set up your RPM points and pull 20% fuel from your lowest RPM setting to about 1500rpms, then try restarting your car. Wait for the car to warm up, and continue to pull fuel until you see better AFR's from your Wideband.
14.7-15 are Perfect AFR's.
>tune it asap and you shouldnt have bought the neo
There is nothing wrong with the NEO.
Set up your RPM points and pull 20% fuel from your lowest RPM setting to about 1500rpms, then try restarting your car. Wait for the car to warm up, and continue to pull fuel until you see better AFR's from your Wideband.
14.7-15 are Perfect AFR's.
330whp 309ft/lbs @ 21 PSI
The lack of Knock response kills it for me
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
330whp 309ft/lbs @ 21 PSI
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Any instructions on how to do that?
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There is nothing wrong with the NEO.
Set up your RPM points and pull 20% fuel from your lowest RPM setting to about 1500rpms, then try restarting your car. Wait for the car to warm up, and continue to pull fuel until you see better AFR's from your Wideband.
14.7-15 are Perfect AFR's.
>tune it asap and you shouldnt have bought the neo
There is nothing wrong with the NEO.
Set up your RPM points and pull 20% fuel from your lowest RPM setting to about 1500rpms, then try restarting your car. Wait for the car to warm up, and continue to pull fuel until you see better AFR's from your Wideband.
14.7-15 are Perfect AFR's.
Any instructions on how to do that?
Go into Settings....then air map.....then use the "select button" to scroll between high and low throttle. Once you are on low throttle, use the "left and right buttons" to scroll through the RPM points. Once at your desired RPM points (first few up to about 2000rpms) use the "up and down buttons" to pull "fuel". You are going to want negative values here.....(-20%)
By pulling 20% (-20%) in the first few spots up until 2000rpms should allow your car to keep a constant idle without stalling out. If it can in fact keep an idle long enough to get the car all warmed up, you can start pulling fuel until your AFR's look a bit more normal.
By pulling 20% (-20%) in the first few spots up until 2000rpms should allow your car to keep a constant idle without stalling out. If it can in fact keep an idle long enough to get the car all warmed up, you can start pulling fuel until your AFR's look a bit more normal.
330whp 309ft/lbs @ 21 PSI
Do I need my stock o2 sensors to operate? Or can I just run with my wide band o2 sensor?
And I'm also having another problem... My safc stopped working ...we checked all the connections and nothing...
This post has been edited by aznpnoiboi55: Jul 8, 2009 - 6:29 PM
And I'm also having another problem... My safc stopped working ...we checked all the connections and nothing...
This post has been edited by aznpnoiboi55: Jul 8, 2009 - 6:29 PM
Yes, you want to have your stock o2 Sensor in and working.
Check the grounds for the wiring to the SAFC.
Check the grounds for the wiring to the SAFC.
330whp 309ft/lbs @ 21 PSI
you will want to keep them both, but you may need to fool the one after the cat as it might throw a CEL. do this with the antifouler trick its pretty easy.
This post has been edited by D_Dawg: Jul 9, 2009 - 12:58 AM
This post has been edited by D_Dawg: Jul 9, 2009 - 12:58 AM
330whp 309ft/lbs @ 21 PSI
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Will it make a diff if I used the one after? Cuz I got the bung for it
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You HAVE to keep the one Before the cat.
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Do I want to keep the one before or after the cat?
>Yes, you want to have your stock o2 Sensor in and working.
Check the grounds for the wiring to the SAFC.
Check the grounds for the wiring to the SAFC.
Do I want to keep the one before or after the cat?
You HAVE to keep the one Before the cat.
Will it make a diff if I used the one after? Cuz I got the bung for it
You HAVE to hook the factory 2 bolt o2 Sensor back up, period. If you bought a bung for the "second" o2 sensor that was after the factory cat, feel free to ADD (meaning your factory 2 bolt o2 is already in place) that as well.
330whp 309ft/lbs @ 21 PSI
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That's what I meant - poor choice of words. But the fact that it shows you the "value" allows you to respond to it by backing off the throttle if you see anything you don't like. On my old setup that was one of the many things I watched frequently and my eyes still naturally move to where I had the SAFC-II mounted - I wish I still had an indication of what that "value" is.
To me this makes the Neo an inferior but prettier version of the same thing. I was unaware it had more RPM points tho - that's a good thing.
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It has nothing to do with knock "response" as neither the SAFCII or the NEO will "respond" to knock. The SAFCII shows you a "knock/noise value", but doesnt respond to it. Basically useless.
>The lack of Knock response kills it for me
It has nothing to do with knock "response" as neither the SAFCII or the NEO will "respond" to knock. The SAFCII shows you a "knock/noise value", but doesnt respond to it. Basically useless.
That's what I meant - poor choice of words. But the fact that it shows you the "value" allows you to respond to it by backing off the throttle if you see anything you don't like. On my old setup that was one of the many things I watched frequently and my eyes still naturally move to where I had the SAFC-II mounted - I wish I still had an indication of what that "value" is.
To me this makes the Neo an inferior but prettier version of the same thing. I was unaware it had more RPM points tho - that's a good thing.
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
hey ok i didnt want to say anything but looking at your ic piping i see something wrong. when u do try and boost or when you get your car running... the air temp sensor plug isnt suppost to go onto your ic piping, hook that up to your turbo inlet or aka turbo intake.... if u hook that up to your ic piping that will either pop out or cause you to have boost leak!..just looking after you man..ooh yeah once again turn your oil feed line to the side or change it so that the sensor is replacing it...just a little input..
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Thanx dude...I didn't know about.that is there a way That I can get it so that the sensor won't pop out?...and yah I turned the oil line to the side...
>hey ok i didnt want to say anything but looking at your ic piping i see something wrong. when u do try and boost or when you get your car running... the air temp sensor plug isnt suppost to go onto your ic piping, hook that up to your turbo inlet or aka turbo intake.... if u hook that up to your ic piping that will either pop out or cause you to have boost leak!..just looking after you man..ooh yeah once again turn your oil feed line to the side or change it so that the sensor is replacing it...just a little input..
Thanx dude...I didn't know about.that is there a way That I can get it so that the sensor won't pop out?...and yah I turned the oil line to the side...
Ok guys I got my safc back on and got my celi started thanx to jim...and we also tried to get the AFR to 14.7 but it's hard idk how to get the right settings though...another thing is that wenever I rev it higher like 2-3rpm it wouldn't go any higher...the cool part is that I can here my turbo start to spool by then....after a couple more times of trying me celi died out...and now it doesn't start but cranks..I mean it would start but it would idle it dies again..I even put the setting back to what jim said and it does the same thing...need help with tuning guys my friend bailed out on me cuz he went back to Arizona uti
This post has been edited by aznpnoiboi55: Jul 10, 2009 - 2:49 AM
This post has been edited by aznpnoiboi55: Jul 10, 2009 - 2:49 AM
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RL is wrong.
on our NA cars, that we turbo we WANT that sensor in our IC piping. you need to find a way to create a tight seal so that it dont leak.
since we dont have a MAT, we use the IAT to let the motor know when hot air is coming in so that it uses the compensation maps the stock ECU has to add extra fuel because of the extra heat.
your still stalling out because the car needs to be tuned.
in the low and high throttle map, pull out 20% from 2500 to redline.
that will get you started and running.
as you go thru the RPM range at anything over 30% throttle, you will be on the high throttle map, so that is where you will want to pull fuel.
any time your in boost, you want the a/f to be ~11.5:1
anything out of boost, you want it to be as close to 14.7:1 as you can get it.
>>
Thanx dude...I didn't know about.that is there a way That I can get it so that the sensor won't pop out?...and yah I turned the oil line to the side...
>hey ok i didnt want to say anything but looking at your ic piping i see something wrong. when u do try and boost or when you get your car running... the air temp sensor plug isnt suppost to go onto your ic piping, hook that up to your turbo inlet or aka turbo intake.... if u hook that up to your ic piping that will either pop out or cause you to have boost leak!..just looking after you man..ooh yeah once again turn your oil feed line to the side or change it so that the sensor is replacing it...just a little input..
Thanx dude...I didn't know about.that is there a way That I can get it so that the sensor won't pop out?...and yah I turned the oil line to the side...
RL is wrong.
on our NA cars, that we turbo we WANT that sensor in our IC piping. you need to find a way to create a tight seal so that it dont leak.
since we dont have a MAT, we use the IAT to let the motor know when hot air is coming in so that it uses the compensation maps the stock ECU has to add extra fuel because of the extra heat.
your still stalling out because the car needs to be tuned.
in the low and high throttle map, pull out 20% from 2500 to redline.
that will get you started and running.
as you go thru the RPM range at anything over 30% throttle, you will be on the high throttle map, so that is where you will want to pull fuel.
any time your in boost, you want the a/f to be ~11.5:1
anything out of boost, you want it to be as close to 14.7:1 as you can get it.
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
>
This is probably half my fault. John asked me and I agreed that with it setup as it is it's going to blow out of the hole. But I didn't bother to elaborate that it does need to be in the cold pipe [so as to show true intake temps] but needs to be sealed very well.
Sorry about that.
Azn - it needs to be said that since you are doing a simple tune just to keep the car running until you can get it to the dyno - you need to be carefull not to boost it too hard or generally beat on it at all untill you get it tuned properly. Be careful and finish this up properly and you'll be happy and safe.
Get your self to a Dyno and get a proper tune
>RL is wrong.
on our NA cars, that we turbo we WANT that sensor in our IC piping. you need to find a way to create a tight seal so that it dont leak.
since we dont have a MAT, we use the IAT to let the motor know when hot air is coming in so that it uses the compensation maps the stock ECU has to add extra fuel because of the extra heat.
on our NA cars, that we turbo we WANT that sensor in our IC piping. you need to find a way to create a tight seal so that it dont leak.
since we dont have a MAT, we use the IAT to let the motor know when hot air is coming in so that it uses the compensation maps the stock ECU has to add extra fuel because of the extra heat.
This is probably half my fault. John asked me and I agreed that with it setup as it is it's going to blow out of the hole. But I didn't bother to elaborate that it does need to be in the cold pipe [so as to show true intake temps] but needs to be sealed very well.
Sorry about that.
Azn - it needs to be said that since you are doing a simple tune just to keep the car running until you can get it to the dyno - you need to be carefull not to boost it too hard or generally beat on it at all untill you get it tuned properly. Be careful and finish this up properly and you'll be happy and safe.
Get your self to a Dyno and get a proper tune
ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYOSUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper SportsEXT: WRC/TRD/404QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM)Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.Slow down Paul Walker.6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url]
Ok so basically I need to get my celi tuned...the problem here is that we had a dyno before but ever since 1320performance moved they don't have the dyno anymore...so icant tune it the way I want to...I know this guy who knows how to tune without a dyno...he did his supra street tuned...I hope he can do it for me...but I heard that he charges $150 an hour...all I'm trying to get out of my celi is just to run well with no problems that's it... I hope that it won't be that pricey...it would save me a lot it anyone here can teach me how to tune so I can save money...
the right tuning now will save you choke money later. Frick too bad the suppah ferry is out. i would've brought my trailer to maui (using my celica
) and drag your car to munkey works to get it tuned. Sean is the man
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
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Yeah I know who you're talking about, and he is extremely good in tuning toyota's
Regardless of the price, you should ask him to tune it for you. I'll give you a call though if i'm able to help you out with the tuning. I've been really busy lately.
This post has been edited by netrata: Jul 12, 2009 - 12:16 AM
>Ok so basically I need to get my celi tuned...the problem here is that we had a dyno before but ever since 1320performance moved they don't have the dyno anymore...so icant tune it the way I want to...I know this guy who knows how to tune without a dyno...he did his supra street tuned...I hope he can do it for me...but I heard that he charges $150 an hour...all I'm trying to get out of my celi is just to run well with no problems that's it... I hope that it won't be that pricey...it would save me a lot it anyone here can teach me how to tune so I can save money...
Yeah I know who you're talking about, and he is extremely good in tuning toyota's
This post has been edited by netrata: Jul 12, 2009 - 12:16 AM
The stalling almost sounds like a map sensor problem. I'd check for vacuum leaks between the map sensor and the manifold (I hope you didn't splice into that hose for the boost gauge), make sure it's plugged in (I know I forgot to do this once... lol), and make sure the SAFC connections to the map sensor wires are wired correctly and have good connections. Of course, any of this would cause a CEL though.
And I don't mean to advertise here, but I have a mild steel two bolt flange for the primary o2 sensor that I got from KO racing and never used. just needs to be welded to your downpipe and bolt the o2 sensor right up. PM me if you're interested
And I don't mean to advertise here, but I have a mild steel two bolt flange for the primary o2 sensor that I got from KO racing and never used. just needs to be welded to your downpipe and bolt the o2 sensor right up. PM me if you're interested
94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive
